Most tour books will tell you Kampala is a city of
seven hills and this is very true expect there are a lot more than seven. The
hills and the fact that almost no street in the city goes straight for very
long makes Kamapla somewhat confusing to navigate. And by somewhat I mean very.
I have no idea where I am going. Thankfully the city is packed with very convenient
motorcycle taxis known as boda-bodas. Boda drivers generally know their way to
all the districts in Kampala so finding a certain place isn’t too hard as long
as you take a boda.
This is a boda. |
Many bodas waiting for customers at a boda stage which is just a designated place a few bodas are permanently stationed. Instead of driving around looking for customers they will wait at their stage. |
Walking around Kamapla is an option but not a very
practical one. I usually only walk about a mile up my street to a small strip
mall area that has two grocery stores, a coffee house, a few restaurants, and
plenty of people selling fruits, vegetables, and bootleg movies in the parking
lot. This is where I normally do my grocery and movie shopping. Down my street
the other direction, around the corner, and down another street are two malls
(yes, there are two malls located right next to each other). The malls host a
variety of shops and both have one large grocery store. I usually only go to
the mall to use the ATM because anything you can get in the mall you can get
elsewhere for cheaper.
There is a city center or downtown area that hosts
many tall office and government buildings. Most embassies are also situated in
the downtown area. Downtown and throughout the greater Kampala area there are
endless strip malls for lack of a better word. Every street you drive down in
the city will have stores on top of stores on top of stores…literally. A few
streets will only have stores that offer certain products like electronics. If
you need any electronic device all you have to do is go to Kampala Road where
you will find a plethora of shops offering the exact same products. When I was
searching for a camera battery I just got dropped off on Kampala Road went into
the first shop I saw that was advertising cameras and asked if they had the
specific battery I needed. If they didn’t I simply walked out the door and went
right into the shop next door. I went to maybe 8 different stores and a few of
the stores had was I was looking for but I was on the search for the best
price. I could have gone into 60 stores if I wanted but I eventually found what
I needed and at the right price. I actually ended up going to Kampala Road
twice because I like to survey my options, gather the information, and then
return later because making a decision at the store is too much pressure. At
least I know I’m getting the best deal when I do this even if it takes me two
days to buy a camera battery.
This describes Kampala so well - please keep our city clean by not littering and throwing your trash away in this non-existent trash can. Thanks! |
Can't wait to celebrate 50 years this October! |
So there is the electronic district (I just made
that up), the fabric district (I’m pretty sure that is what people actually
call that area), the Ethiopian restaurant district, the mall district, and many
more of these types of areas that I have yet to discover. To me it seems odd
that the same types of stores would gather in the same region but that’s
Kampala.
When you aren’t in one of the above mentioned areas
you will mainly see informal used clothing shops, small restaurants, food
stands, internet cafes, some very questionable hotels, inns, and hostels, bars,
convenient stores, the occasional large grocery store, many buildings that you
have no clue what purpose they serve, and oh so much more. However, if you are
new in Kampala (or even if you aren’t) chances are you aren’t looking at your surroundings
because you are too distracted by the traffic which your boda driver will
inevitably be trying to bob and weave through. This process usually includes
methods like driving on the sidewalk, the grass, and in the really really too
small places between cars. (Don’t worry Mom, I only use the safest bodas in
Kampala and you are never travelling fast when doing this.) But, I can guarantee
you will get to your destination before the people in the cars and buses. Check
out the video below that I took while riding on a boda. The song in the video
is really quite appropriate because it will be either this song or some other
loud and obnoxious American or Ugandan pop song that accompanies you on your
ride through the city via the shops on the side of the road. Noise pollution
does not exist in Kampala. It appears that it is completely appropriate to play
music or a recording of someone preaching as loud as possible at all times of
the day and night. There are even cars that serve the sole purpose of driving
down the street blaring music and advertising one thing or another. Quiet time
is hard to find just because it is never really quiet. Unfortunately I cannot get the video to load. The internet probably isn't fast enough. I will try again and add it to the blog if it works later.
In the middle of the city are the two taxi parks
which are constantly crazy busy. There is old taxi park and new taxi park and I
have yet to figure out which is which. Taxis in Uganda are not what you are
thinking. Picture a traditional white cargo van and add some beat up old seats
and windows and you’ve got yourself a taxi. I have yet to take a taxi here
because I don’t understand how to tell where they are going. Sometimes there is
a guy leaning out the window yelling the name of the destination but I usually
don’t know what he is saying. Taxis are the third cheapest method of
transportation right behind large buses (buses here are the same as in the U.S)
and walking. Bodas are cheap by U.S. standards but a semi-luxury to many
Ugandans. They do have what American’s consider taxis in Uganda. They are
referred to as special hires and are the most expensive mode of transportation.
Ugandan style taxi - that guy is the one who will yell out the name of the area the taxi is headed toward. |
Along with all the sights I have already mentioned
your nose will be assaulted with various smells during your time in Kampala.
The two main smells are burning trash and exhaust. Neither are pleasant but you
either get used to them or learn not to breathe when behind a large bus. For
the other smells well you’ll just have to come visit me and experience them
first hand.
Kampala is very much a hustling and bustling city
full of people, noises, smells, and its’ own kind of charm. While it is a very
complicated city to navigate I am confident I will know my way around within a
few months. Just as moving to any big city in the U.S. it takes time to adjust
and learn the ropes, and I think that is half the adventure. Hopefully my
descriptions, pictures, and video help you understand what Kampala is like and
what to expect during your upcoming visit ;).
P.S. I wrote this blog a few days ago and since then I have discovered the stationary district! Paper needs? Head to Kampala's stationary district!
P.S. I wrote this blog a few days ago and since then I have discovered the stationary district! Paper needs? Head to Kampala's stationary district!
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